One of my classes here in Aix-en-Provence is entitled Women and the Mediterranean: from Myth to Modernity. Since coming to France a few weeks ago, I have noticed this theme of juxtaposing the ancient and the modern: a coffee chain built into a church from the 15th century, Teslas driving on Roman cobblestone streets, and pizza stands sitting below statues of saints constructed during the Bubonic Plague. Aix is a town which displays its history. There are structures from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance which still stand as well as influences form the Roman empire around every corner. Each building is lined with pipes for plumbing and bunches of electrical wires added over the recent centuries. It tells a story of coexisting preservation and evolution in a changing world. In a sense, it reflects the experience of a study abroad student: bringing conceptions of yourself and the world into a completely new environment in which you’re pushed to adapt and develop as a person. So far, I’ve fallen in love with the beauty of this process and in love with Aix for facilitating it.
With that in mind, let me take you on a tour of the town!
The university I’m studying at, the Institute of American Universities (IAU), has no campus, but is instead a few buildings grouped in city center. This makes it easy to stop for a croissant between classes or study at a café, which I’ve definitely taken advantage of.
Aix is called the city of fountains, or the town of a thousand fountains. The end of each street hosts its own fountain, and with that is often a square of cafés, boutiques, and community spaces. My favorite of these is Place des Prêcheurs: a huge square where you can see preserved Roman streets in front of the Palais de Justice and Église de la Madeleine.
There are often kids running around and dogs playing fetch in front of this gorgeous church originally built in the late 1200s. That is, when the market stands have been put away. Different squares in Aix have daily markets where people roll their large shopping baskets behind them collecting fruits, veggies, cheeses, meat, bread, and even flowers for the week.
The flower market is my favorite. I’ve notice so many couples, young and old, walking the streets of Aix together with flowers. My host mom always keeps multiple bouquets of fresh flowers in the kitchen and on the dinning room table. There are also the most beautiful wildflowers as you walk out of city center towards the countryside.
I’ve been spending a lot of time on the outskirts of Aix where the Marschutz art center is located. My ceramics class is by far my favorite here. The pottery studio is outdoors next to a mini vineyard on a small hill.
If you venture further into the countryside of Aix, you’ll find your way to the base of a mountain: Montagne Sainte Victoire. I hiked Saint Victoire with a friend this past weekend and it was well worth the hours of climbing. Near the top is Sainte Victoire Priory, a monastery built in the 17th century and dating back to a religious refuge site from the 5th century. At the peak of Saint Victoire is the Croix de Provence, a giant cross overlooking the valley. The view was breathtaking and it was such a peaceful experience, surrounded as far as the eye could see by wild rosemary.
I hope you’ve enjoyed your little introduction to Aix-en-Provence!
Until next time,
Natalie